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Center-Seam Moccasins
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Please follow directions from left to right.
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I found these instructions online a few years back and I'm sharing them with you. You can visit http://www.nativetech.org/ and find some great instructions. These instructions are how I was able to create my paper pattern with my alterations where needed. (Page 1 of 3)  
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http://www.nativetech.org/clothing/moccasin/mocinstr.html
(Page 2 of 3)

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http://www.nativetech.org/clothing/moccasin/mocinstr.html
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(Page 3 of 3)
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The first thing you want to do is make a paper pattern. I made mine over two years ago. These moccs come up to bottom of my knees. (See instructions for paper pattern above.)
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Trace your pattern out on the leather. Try to fit it in the best location as to not waste too much leather. I use a black chalk pencil to draw out my pattern. It is easy to remove the chalk once the pattern is cut out.
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First mocc is all cut out and ready to sew. Notice Mr Nosey Pickles has to be in the picture!!! You see the mocc to the left, the center back seam rectangular piece and the straps what will wrap around my calves and tie up my moccasins. Now to proceed to tracing and cutting out mocc #2.
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The first step to sewing the moccs is to sew the front foot section using \ \ \ \ \ \ \ a diagonal stitch the going back using - - - - - - a straight stitch to reinforce the sewing.

If you notice the top portion of the moccs are wide and tall...they will wrap around my calves and go up to my knees. They will be tied down with straps. In the directions I provided, this would not be the step to follow. You would have a fold down collar around the mocc.
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Here is a close up to see the diagonal \\\\ stitch and the straight ---- stitch.
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Once you pull the mocc inside out you can see the beginning of a center seam moccasin.
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You begin sewing the back at the base of the heel living the gap at the bottom which will be sewn down later.
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Lay down the rectangular strip between the back where the back seam will be. It should be the same length from the bottom to the top of the heel/leg of the moccasin.
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Once again using the diagonal and straight stitch all the way up the back. 
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Turn the moccasin right side out and you can see the center line going up the back.
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A close up on the center piece in the back.
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Take scissors and trip down the center piece close to the back of the moccasin.
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Continue cutting the seam all the way up the back.
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Pull the bottom flap out and sew down.
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Trim the flap in any style you wish. 
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Finished Center-Seam knee high moccasin. You can now trim the top edge with beads. If you created the ankle length moccasins, you can sew wool onto the flaps on the sides and add beadwork.

​Eastern Woodland Moccasins - How to make your own Moccasins from The Wandering Bull, LLC

Center Seam Pucker Toe Moccasins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nORTUJiDAg
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