Feather Cape
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After researching documentation on feather capes and reading the book, Cherokee Clothing in the 1700’s by Barbara R. Duncan, I created my own capes and adjusted the instructions for myself. Please note these instructions are written for the cape having a cloth base, which was one of the original methods. Documentation for this type of cape can be found in the above-mentioned book and Cherokee elders in the Payne manuscripts describe it. Also note there are two other methods. One is to spin the feathers into twine and the other would be to create netting backing and attaching the feathers to the netting. These two methods will require a mentor to teach you. It will not be included in these instructions, nor are those instructions included in the book mentioned above.
Cloth for cape
Heavy-weight Linen (the color of the feathers) or cotton. It is recommended not to use Muslin (to light) or canvas (too heavy). 1 yard of material is sufficient for capes that hang right off the shoulder or one that hangs to the elbow. Pictured above is right off the shoulder. (If lining cape, calico print, wool or ink block is acceptable.)
Bias tape to create feather trim to hold feathers in place.
Cotton/poly bias tape or cotton twill tape will work. The tape should be 3/8ths to ½ inch wide. Color should match feathers.
(Trimmed feathers can be purchased online as well.)
Ties for front
Hemp twine, natural-fiber or ribbon can be used to attach ties.
Ribbon
Used to trim around the neckline if desired.
Feathers
Recommended are turkey feathers or goose feathers.
(¼ to ½ of a pound depending on the size of the person if sewing feather trims)
(3 to 6 packages of pre-trimmed feathers depending on shoulder or elbow length)
For my shoulder length cape I used 4 pkgs + 2 yards a package = 8 yards approximately. For an elbow length you will use 6 to 8 packages.
Turkey - long tail for knee-length capes
wing-tip for elbow-length capes or shoulder length
Goose - “satinette” feathers
-red goose represent cardinal
-bright blue goose represent the bluebird
-green and gold goose feathers represent the Carolina parakeet
-black goose feathers represent the raven
-white goose feathers represent the swan
*Songbirds and their feathers are protected by law & cannot be used. It is safe & legal to use goose feathers.
Butcher block paper
Used to draw out cape template for current and future capes.
Instructions:
Making the base cloth of the cape
1. Measure the desired length for the cape.
-Start at the base of the neck and measure down the shoulder to the end of the shoulder and add an inch. For a longer cape measure at the base of the neck and measure to the middle of the upper arm (shoulder length) or to the elbow for elbow length.
-Add an inch for hemming.
-If there is a desire for a longer cape, like to the knee, measure to that area and add an inch.
2. Draw the cape out using a string and fabric pencils.
-Tie a string to two pencils. Make sure the tied string matches the measurement taken in number one.
-Holding one pencil down in the middle of the butcher block paper, stretch the string out taut. Holding the fabric pencil straight up, draw a circle on the paper. Now pin down paper to fabric.
3. Cut out the cape. (Cut on the line until you have cut out the circle.)
-Fold the circle twice (in half, then fold again into a quarter piece)
-Measuring two inches from the tip, mark and cut the 2 inch point off. This will leave a centered hole in the middle of the cape.
-Cut a straight line to the center of the cape from the edge to the hole.
4. Using an iron fold over an inch (all the way around cape including sides and neck area) and press material down. This will make it easier to sew down the hem. If a larger hole is desired for the neck area, cut accordingly.
5. Hem around the entire cape. Make sure to use the same color thread as the cape.
Feathers to be sewn (This step can be skipped if pre-trimmed feathers are purchased)
Pre-trimmed feathers (this sewing will be done by hand due to adhesive inside trim holding feathers in place)
Adding lining to cape. (This is not necessary but is a nice touch)
Cloth for cape
Heavy-weight Linen (the color of the feathers) or cotton. It is recommended not to use Muslin (to light) or canvas (too heavy). 1 yard of material is sufficient for capes that hang right off the shoulder or one that hangs to the elbow. Pictured above is right off the shoulder. (If lining cape, calico print, wool or ink block is acceptable.)
Bias tape to create feather trim to hold feathers in place.
Cotton/poly bias tape or cotton twill tape will work. The tape should be 3/8ths to ½ inch wide. Color should match feathers.
(Trimmed feathers can be purchased online as well.)
Ties for front
Hemp twine, natural-fiber or ribbon can be used to attach ties.
Ribbon
Used to trim around the neckline if desired.
Feathers
Recommended are turkey feathers or goose feathers.
(¼ to ½ of a pound depending on the size of the person if sewing feather trims)
(3 to 6 packages of pre-trimmed feathers depending on shoulder or elbow length)
For my shoulder length cape I used 4 pkgs + 2 yards a package = 8 yards approximately. For an elbow length you will use 6 to 8 packages.
Turkey - long tail for knee-length capes
wing-tip for elbow-length capes or shoulder length
Goose - “satinette” feathers
-red goose represent cardinal
-bright blue goose represent the bluebird
-green and gold goose feathers represent the Carolina parakeet
-black goose feathers represent the raven
-white goose feathers represent the swan
*Songbirds and their feathers are protected by law & cannot be used. It is safe & legal to use goose feathers.
Butcher block paper
Used to draw out cape template for current and future capes.
Instructions:
Making the base cloth of the cape
1. Measure the desired length for the cape.
-Start at the base of the neck and measure down the shoulder to the end of the shoulder and add an inch. For a longer cape measure at the base of the neck and measure to the middle of the upper arm (shoulder length) or to the elbow for elbow length.
-Add an inch for hemming.
-If there is a desire for a longer cape, like to the knee, measure to that area and add an inch.
2. Draw the cape out using a string and fabric pencils.
-Tie a string to two pencils. Make sure the tied string matches the measurement taken in number one.
-Holding one pencil down in the middle of the butcher block paper, stretch the string out taut. Holding the fabric pencil straight up, draw a circle on the paper. Now pin down paper to fabric.
3. Cut out the cape. (Cut on the line until you have cut out the circle.)
-Fold the circle twice (in half, then fold again into a quarter piece)
-Measuring two inches from the tip, mark and cut the 2 inch point off. This will leave a centered hole in the middle of the cape.
-Cut a straight line to the center of the cape from the edge to the hole.
4. Using an iron fold over an inch (all the way around cape including sides and neck area) and press material down. This will make it easier to sew down the hem. If a larger hole is desired for the neck area, cut accordingly.
5. Hem around the entire cape. Make sure to use the same color thread as the cape.
Feathers to be sewn (This step can be skipped if pre-trimmed feathers are purchased)
- Sort feathers to small, medium, and large.
- Throw away broken or damaged feathers.
- Lay feathers out along the bias tape. Make sure if they are curving that they are laid out in the same direction.
- Begin sewing making sure to sew through the quill of the feathers.
- Measure around the bottom of the cape. Make the first strip half the length plus a few inches. Make sure to sew the large feathers at the bottom of the cape right above the hem. Add a few rows of large, then move to middle and small at the top of the cape. (Working from the middle when sewing, if the feathers are curved, sew the left-handed feathers on the left and the right-handed on the right side of the cape.
- If the feathers hang straight down, begin at one side of the cape and sew to the other side.
- Make sure to tuck an inch over the side of the cape and sew down inside the cape.
Pre-trimmed feathers (this sewing will be done by hand due to adhesive inside trim holding feathers in place)
- Do not unpack all the trimmed feathers. Leave them in the original packaging. You can return them easily if you do not use them.
- Using a ruler and a fabric pencil, mark ½ inch to an inch from the hem line from one side of the cape to the other side.
- Open package and lay out the trimmed feathers along the lines drawn on the cape. Attach to the cape using straight pins.
- Using thread, sew down the trimmed feathers along the lines. Make sure to fold the trim over the side of the cape, about an inch, and sew it to the inside of the cape to cover the edge of the cape. Do the same at the end of the cape on the other side.
- Continue steps 2 - 4 until entire cape is covered.
Adding lining to cape. (This is not necessary but is a nice touch)
- Using the template or tracing done earlier on paper, lay out the cut out tracing onto fabric.
- Trace using a fabric pencil and cut out.
- Fold in an inch and iron.
- Lay fabric down onto the underneath of the cape. Make sure folded material is not showing. With an over and under stitch, sew the lining to the cape. (Make sure to add ties before sewing lining.)
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Adding extras
Care for cape
Feel free to contact me via email for any help you may need. If you do not understand instructions, feel free to reach out to me. This is my first attempt to document the making of a feather cape on cloth backing. I’d also love to see the results of your labor. Send me pictures. I’d love to see your work.
Contact:
Weeya Calif
Resources: (Documentation of Woodland Women wearing feather capes.)
Feather Capes/Mantles-
Some have a short cloak, just large enough to cover the shoulders and breast; this is most ingeniously constructed, of feathers woven or placed in a natural imbricated manner, usually of the scarlet feathers of the flamingo, or others of the gayest colour. (By William Bartram 1791)
The women made blankets of turkey-feathers which were bound together with twine made of wild hemp. Of such many are to be found even at present day among the Indians, and these in winter are a better protection against the cold than the best European blanket. (By David Zeisberger 1772)
...in the cold weather they throw a short mantle round the shoulders. (By Duke De La Rouchefoucault Liancourt 1795, 1796 and 1797)
The feathers, being plucked off, were rubbed, and made as soft as possible. Then a narrow strip of soft, pliable bark, as a long as the blanket was to be wide, was put down, and feathers placed on it, from end to end. Then a similar strip of bark was laid on the top, and these two strips of bark were sowed, or fastened together with bark thread. Then another strip was put under], and another tier of feathers & strip of bark over & so on, till one or more blankets were finished. (By Payne, John Howard, and Daniel Sabin Butrick. The Payne-Butrick Papers, Vols. 1-6.Edited and Annotated by William L. Anderson, Jane L. Brown, and Anne F. Rogers. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 2010)
Cherokees in 1762...still talked about the feather garments they had made and worn, a tradition that was longstanding among the Cherokees and other southeastern tribes. (By: Cherokee Clothing of the 1700s, Barbara R. Duncan, pg. 92)
Three kinds of feather capes were made...placing overlapping rows of feathers on cloth...other was made by fastening feathers to a base of netting made of twine from plants. The third...added downy feathers into twine, resulting in a feather rope...fastened together to make garments. (By: Cherokee Clothing of the 1700s, Barbara R. Duncan, pg. 92)
They likewise make turkey feather blankets with the long feathers of the neck and breast of that large fowl - they twist the inner end of the feathers very fast into a strong double thread of hemp, or the inner bark of the mulberry tree...this sort of blanket is not only very warm, but pleasing to the eye. (James Adair 1735 to 1770)
http://woodlandindianedu.com/feathermantlecloakcape.html
https://studylib.net/doc/8831222/lenape-feather-mantles-or-capes--by-jim-rementer
Cherokee Clothing in the 1700s, By: Barbara R. Duncan, Covers Cherokee clothing before, during the 1700s and after.
Materials needed to making the cloth based feather cape:
https://www.amazon.com/Sowder-Goose-Feather-Fringe-Yards/dp/B00SWZH4HC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=white+goose+feather+trim&qid=1553703010&s=gateway&sr=8-7
https://swalefandson.com/
11. Iron for pressing
12. Spool of thread to match color of feathers
- Using ribbon, sew it around the neckline. Add beading or shells, etc. for adornment.
- Using jute, ribbon, or hemp to add ties to the cape. (Attach these before sewing in lining.)
Care for cape
- Hang on a hanger.
- Cover with a plastic bag to prevent dust from gathering onto feathers.
- If it rains while wearing, remove the cape and fold it inside out to protect the feathers.
- If the feathers need to be cleaned, place a window screen over the garment. Hold a vacuum hose several inches above the screen. Move the hose back and forth gently to suction dirt or dust from the feathers.
Feel free to contact me via email for any help you may need. If you do not understand instructions, feel free to reach out to me. This is my first attempt to document the making of a feather cape on cloth backing. I’d also love to see the results of your labor. Send me pictures. I’d love to see your work.
Contact:
Weeya Calif
Resources: (Documentation of Woodland Women wearing feather capes.)
Feather Capes/Mantles-
Some have a short cloak, just large enough to cover the shoulders and breast; this is most ingeniously constructed, of feathers woven or placed in a natural imbricated manner, usually of the scarlet feathers of the flamingo, or others of the gayest colour. (By William Bartram 1791)
The women made blankets of turkey-feathers which were bound together with twine made of wild hemp. Of such many are to be found even at present day among the Indians, and these in winter are a better protection against the cold than the best European blanket. (By David Zeisberger 1772)
...in the cold weather they throw a short mantle round the shoulders. (By Duke De La Rouchefoucault Liancourt 1795, 1796 and 1797)
The feathers, being plucked off, were rubbed, and made as soft as possible. Then a narrow strip of soft, pliable bark, as a long as the blanket was to be wide, was put down, and feathers placed on it, from end to end. Then a similar strip of bark was laid on the top, and these two strips of bark were sowed, or fastened together with bark thread. Then another strip was put under], and another tier of feathers & strip of bark over & so on, till one or more blankets were finished. (By Payne, John Howard, and Daniel Sabin Butrick. The Payne-Butrick Papers, Vols. 1-6.Edited and Annotated by William L. Anderson, Jane L. Brown, and Anne F. Rogers. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 2010)
Cherokees in 1762...still talked about the feather garments they had made and worn, a tradition that was longstanding among the Cherokees and other southeastern tribes. (By: Cherokee Clothing of the 1700s, Barbara R. Duncan, pg. 92)
Three kinds of feather capes were made...placing overlapping rows of feathers on cloth...other was made by fastening feathers to a base of netting made of twine from plants. The third...added downy feathers into twine, resulting in a feather rope...fastened together to make garments. (By: Cherokee Clothing of the 1700s, Barbara R. Duncan, pg. 92)
They likewise make turkey feather blankets with the long feathers of the neck and breast of that large fowl - they twist the inner end of the feathers very fast into a strong double thread of hemp, or the inner bark of the mulberry tree...this sort of blanket is not only very warm, but pleasing to the eye. (James Adair 1735 to 1770)
http://woodlandindianedu.com/feathermantlecloakcape.html
https://studylib.net/doc/8831222/lenape-feather-mantles-or-capes--by-jim-rementer
Cherokee Clothing in the 1700s, By: Barbara R. Duncan, Covers Cherokee clothing before, during the 1700s and after.
Materials needed to making the cloth based feather cape:
- Ruler and measuring tape
- Scissors
- Stick pins
- Ribbed Ribbon (for trimming collar and possible ties) 1 inch or larger in width
- Fabric pencil
- Twine for ties (or you can use ribbon)
- Brown paper for creating cape template
- 1 yard of linen or heavy cotton fabric (should match color of feathers)
- 1 yard of calico print fabric for lining
- Feathers (goose)
https://www.amazon.com/Sowder-Goose-Feather-Fringe-Yards/dp/B00SWZH4HC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=white+goose+feather+trim&qid=1553703010&s=gateway&sr=8-7
https://swalefandson.com/
11. Iron for pressing
12. Spool of thread to match color of feathers